Turn Table Hard Knocks
by Tom Taylor

So you have a couple of rough repairs under your belt and your feeling good about yourself THEN along comes a customer’s ’55 RCA record player (changer) packaged in a mini console with what forums say is cherry colored mahogany. You take it because it seems manageable and the owner believes in you based on a recommendation and there are FEW or NO other KNOWN options for their refurbishment task. After a brief look inside the cabinet and under the turn table you recognize quality, a pair of 50C5s in push pull and you’re thinking how much of a challenge can that old mechanism be, right? Stand Up Step one was to replace all 11 capacitors including the leaky speaker crossover capacitor and all four tubes to attain a powered amp test. WE GOOD HERE. Step two is to run LP records and see what doesn’t work right on this 65 year old changer. At this point I should have heard trucks or an incoming mortar round while staring at the usual evidence of dried up grease, you know, the underlying cause for items that don’t move like they should. Thought it was arthritis didn’t you. This state of affairs is better defined as an incorrect operating speed for 33 RPM, a conspicuous absence of normal changer actions like a dysfunctional tone arm, failures to recognize record drop, no automatic turn off, etc. It was also at this time I noticed the sound would degrade then drop out periodically just to go completely west after no more than four albums. Took a few frets and tests at cartridge connections to realize the issue was the cartridge NOT the amplifier AND IF you magnify the needle on mounting axis you could see that it was dull and had rotated about 20 degrees in its plastic attachment explaining the tone arm’s willingness to start skating across the record towards the center (other than the occasional lint build up that elevated the needle).

Stand UP Lets first get rotations ‘up to speed’ by addressing top and bottom motor bushings with light oil, then using alcohol, remove all evidence of oil on the drive capstan, the speed interface wheels, the idler wheel and the inside of the platter. THEN, use mineral spirits (AKA charcoal lighter fluid) to dissolve congealed lubricant at EVERY flipper pivot you can find under there, and they are everywhere. You know, in the software world these flippers might be considered IF THEN statements and in the hardware world they might be considered logic gates. Then, lube other linkage pivots ONLY with very fine oil ONLY where needed to attain total freedom of movement. Follow that by wiping off excess grease that tends to accumulate at the end of mechanism travel and replace with fine oil where things move against one another. NOW, reinstall the changer and check for an improved performance. Not good yet. Oh, and about here the platter speed starts to vary while rotating begging the question ‘is it a low speed motor or is it the slippage we just addressed’. ON the good side our member in Alvin had a handsome stock of cartridges and needles one of which was chosen to provide clear music albeit at a lower level. Another trip to and from our friend to obtain that same day a solid state preamp that only needed two electrolytics due to age. It was first required to confirm suspicions and then retained rather than order something else on line and adapt that one days later.

Stand Up Remove that changer and recheck for overlooked and reluctant flippers as well as areas of movement about the tone arm mount and of course check all areas previously serviced. Treat those as needed and reinstall the changer. Not good yet. HHMMM IF the platter speed is too low there must be slippage somewhere so back with the alcohol and this time you find the idler wheel rubber seems hard which will cause slippage on the inside of the platter, ie a slower record speed. After finding that Phono Non-Slip from GC Electronics does nothing for this slippage condition I took to removing all that Phono Non-Slip with alcohol and began to sweat. What are the chances of a ’55 RCA idler wheel being found for sale, ANYWHERE? Although I soon found a candidate on line for $50 it hit my estimate of total repair pretty hard, particularly after labor and four tubes, 11 capacitors, one resistor, one cartridge, a needle and a preamp. But wait. There are fluids that   attack and soften rubber on an idler wheel such that it might provide the needed grip at a platter surface. A bit of research leads me to the product at EPO on Westpark disguised as Rubber Renue 408A by MG Chemicals. A trip to and from Houston’s far side and THAT speed irregularity problem becomes history but now our beloved target performs smooth but most certainly slower than 33 RPM. This awareness leads to a condition called weak knees leaving but one option, to move ahead now even if more slowly than before.

Stand UP. But wait! IF there is no slippage remaining the issue must be that motor, you know, the same motor that ran so well after fine oil treatment early on. Yep, This time with my newest best friend mineral spirits the schmuetz in those bushings appears to be dissolved and we have at last some good down home country oldies, time after time after time after….. Bruised and numb, I am just not sure I am cut out for these fights anymore. I may need some of that self confidence just to get up each day.